The Catacombs of Palermo
- Tammy Lee
- 2 days ago
- 3 min read
I was lucky enough to visit Palermo in Sicily recently, and, of course, I had to visit the Catacombe dei Cappuccini.
The catacombs were originally built to bury the monks of the Order of Friars Minor Capuchin. By 1597, the original room they had built was full, and excavations began to use the natural ancient caves to expand the space. After two years, they were ready, and the friars from the previous grave were to be moved into the new catacombs; however, to the surprise of those involved, all the bodies were perfectly preserved and recognisable. The underground conditions had naturally dried the bodies without the need for embalming,
Fra Silvestro of Gubbio was the first to be interred in the new catacombs in 1599, and he is displayed with a sign bearing the date.
Originally, the catacombs were intended only for the use of the monks of the Order. Still, word had spread of the tomb's natural phenomenon, and soon the wealthier people of Palermo wanted their bodies immortalised in the caves.
As time went on, the preservation techniques developed; the deceased would be placed into a specific chamber for months until they were fully dehydrated. The bodies were then washed in vinegar (or, during pandemics, arsenic) and dressed in clothing chosen by themselves or their families.
Eventually, chemical embalming became commonplace, and one of the most famous examples is Rosalie Lombardo – The Sleeping Beauty.
Rosalie died as a result of pneumonia in 1920, just a week before her second birthday. Her father was understandably devastated and stated he wanted her to ‘live forever’. He requested the services of Alfredo Salafia, a master of embalming and taxidermy. He used a mixture of chemicals to keep her perfectly preserved, and once he finished, the child looked as if she were merely sleeping.
If you visit Rosalie now, she is fenced off and in a temperature-controlled glass case filled with nitrogen gas; despite these preventive measures to prevent her deterioration, you can still clearly see her delicate features. There are many stories of Rosalie opening her eyes throughout the day, revealing her blue eyes. Some believe it is the reflection of the light on the glass, but many believe it is her way of saying she is, indeed, going to live forever.
They stopped placing bodies into the catacombs in 1880, with only two exceptions. One was in 1911 for Giovanni Paterniti, the Vice Consul of the United States. And the other was for Rosalie.
Today, the catacombs are filled with an unbelievable number of bodies, all in various stages of decay. Some of the earlier interred are skeletons with fabric clinging to what remains. Others are still fully recognisable down to the features and even facial hair. They are placed in the walls and in-built shelves; some are protected in coffins, while others seem barely holding on to their last earthly position.
Sicilians are much more open about the conversation of death than we are. They remember and celebrate their dead, even taking their children to picnics at their ancestors' resting places. I think it’s rather beautiful, and their respect is reflected in the catacombs; rather than being a creepy place, it is a peaceful place, somewhere to remember and reflect. As Ippolito Pindemonte wrote in 1777, ‘Death looks at them, and it seems to have missed all the shots’.
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